Lowcountry Chef Amethyst Ganaway’s Guide to Charleston
I credit growing up in South Carolina's Lowcountry as the biggest influence on my becoming a chef. There’s no way I could be surrounded by and raised in this landscape and culture and not have an intimate relationship with the food, people, and places around me. Finding delicious food in and around Charleston isn't difficult. You can throw a stone and stumble across any number of spots that serve Southern fare, but there are some places that really represent what’s at the heart of Lowcountry cuisine. Specifically, the Gullah Geechee culture. Many dishes synonymous with the Lowcountry—shrimp and grits, Frogmore stew (aka Lowcountry boil), and okra and tomatoes—originate from Gullah foodways.
Here, I share a little piece of the Charleston I grew up in, from local shopping and sightseeing tips to recommendations on where to eat, including some wonderful newcomers to Charleston’s food scene.
Cultural influences of the Gullah Geechee
Charleston’s food is heavily informed by Gullah and West African cuisine and culture, arguably even more so than by the region’s European and Indigenous traditions. The Gullah people—descendants of enslaved West Africans who were brought to the Lowcountry during the transatlantic slave trade—were able to retain their cultural heritage and food practices due to their isolation on many of the sea and barrier islands and surrounding communities. Across Charleston, the influence of the Gullah Geechee is everywhere, from wrought iron gates created by esteemed blacksmith Philip Simmons, to the sweetgrass weavers that you’ll find at the Charleston City Market or down Highway 17.
Where to find Charleston's most emblematic dishes
There’s no shortage of delicious places to eat in Charleston, but it's worth spotlighting a few Black-owned restaurants and shops—some of which are beyond the peninsula yet absolutely worth the short drive.
If you’re looking for real-deal Gullah Geechee dishes, start out at Hannibal's Kitchen. This local establishment is known for its famous crab rice, but I also recommend trying a bit of fried shark if they have it on special. If you like meaty, flavorful fish, it’s a must-have that you won't find anywhere else.
Dave’s Carry Out and My Three Sons are also local favorites, serving up delicious fried whiting, red rice, and more. Bertha’s Kitchen is an award-winning restaurant that has been serving Charleston diners for decades—if you go, you must order the fried chicken and lima beans.
Gillie’s Seafood on James Island serves up okra gumbo (affectionately known as okra soup or okra stew by locals) that’s loaded with okra, tomatoes, butterbeans, and meat (and served over rice, always). Bintü Atelier is the newest addition to the Charleston food scene, where chef Bintou N’Daw brings the flavors of Africa to the city. Her dishes are a great way to see the direct connection between Gullah and West African culture and cuisine, and everything on the menu is a must-try.
When you’re ready for something sweet, head over to my side of town (North Charleston) and stop at Daddy’s Girl Bakery for Charleston chewies, Swank Desserts for macarons, and Bert and T’s Desserts for traditional Gullah candy such as groundnut cakes, benne brittle, and black walnut brittle.
Top things to do in Charleston
There’s no shortage of things to do in Charleston. With so many places to enjoy, you can have an amazing time just strolling around the cobblestone streets, but there are some must-see sights you don't want to miss on a visit. I recommend walking to historical sites like Waterfront Park and The Battery, where locals go on first dates, enjoy picnics, and book weddings due to the scenic views.
A sightseeing tour or cruise around Charleston will provide first-hand knowledge from the people who know the city and its waterways best—those born and raised in the area. Enjoy a marsh cruise or, if you’re looking to get a bit more hands-on, go crabbing or hire a fishing charter and eat your fresh catch!
Charleston is a coastal city, with a plethora of beaches to visit that are beautiful year-round. Locals are more likely to head to Folly Beach, Isle of Palms, and Sullivans Island, but if you have the time head out a bit further to Kiawah Island, which is less crowded.
How to experience arts and culture in Charleston
If you enjoy the arts, visit the Gibbes Museum of Art in Charleston’s Historic District, or stop by the Dock Street Theatre—the oldest still-operating theater in the US. To view local art made predominantly by Black artists, visit Neema’s Fine Art Gallery or Jonathan Green Studios, where the painter and printmaker sells vibrant imagery that reveals the beauty of the Gullah people and their traditions.
Where to shop in Charleston
You can’t leave Charleston without taking a little piece of the city back with you. Wander around the Charleston City Market in search of snacks and gifts, and make sure to buy sweetgrass baskets made by local artisans. Weaving sweetgrass, a technique brought from West Africa, was kept in practice by many Gullah Geechee families across the Lowcountry. Their work in past times was often to make winnowing baskets for the Carolina Gold rice, but has extended into making beautiful items that can be used decoratively and, in some cases, even worn, with artisans making earrings, purses, and other unique pieces. If you don't get a chance to buy any while you’re in town you can find a few artisans online, like Gola, which makes sweetgrass sandals.
Looking for a gift for the Southern belle in your life? Hop over to the Black- and Asian-woman-owned Tiny Tassel boutique for an array of wearable pieces, or check out Moon-Seed for earrings and other jewelry.
More ways to explore Charleston
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