A Beginner’s Guide to Dining in Rome (Like a Local)

As an Italy travel expert, I get this question often. Most visitors assume that if an eatery has other international diners, it’s a red flag. But Rome is so saturated with tourists from around the world that it’s virtually impossible to find a locals-only option—unless, of course, you travel far into the suburbs. Don’t set your hopes on dining with an entire roomful of Romans, then; instead, learn to spot the telltale signs of a tourist-focused business so you can hone in on where to eat in Rome like a local.

Dead giveaways include menus with photos posted outside the restaurant; keep in mind that posting menus without photos is a common practice among all Roman restaurants, especially those that change their offerings almost daily. Also, bypass any establishment that has staff posted outside inviting you to enter, a practice exclusive to those that depend on tourist traffic. Check if the menu is translated into a laundry list of languages. Dual-language Italian and English menus are ubiquitous in the city center, but if the translations extend to four or five other languages, keep walking.

Finally, be wary of restaurants clustered near the main sights, but don’t dismiss these options entirely—a few of Rome’s most beloved restaurants are just steps from the A-listers, including the Pantheon and the Colosseum.

Rome made me swoon the first time I visited—literally. After a late hotel breakfast, I wasn’t hungry again until mid-afternoon. I had spent hours on my feet sightseeing under the midday sun, so I was tuckered out, overheated, and finding restaurant after restaurant closed at 3pm. I realized that I was about a minute from fainting dead away, so I managed to pop into a coffee bar and suck down a juice before the curtain fell.

Italy, and Rome with it, tends to observe regular mealtimes, and restaurants follow suit. Though you will find establishments that offer all-day dining (hint: this is another tourist-trap red flag), the best trattorias in Rome almost always open for a few hours at lunch, then close in the mid-afternoon before reopening for dinner. Expect lunch to be served from around 12:30pm to around 2:30pm and dinner to be served from around 7:30pm to around 9:30pm.

For a bite between meals, pivot to options open all day, such as gelaterias, pastry shops and bakeries, pizza-by-the-slice joints, and coffee bars that serve sandwiches and other savory finger foods. And keep this timing in mind for calling restaurants to make reservations, as well—most will only answer the phone during the lunch and dinner opening hours.

Not all Roman eateries are alike, and it’s worth paying attention to the different categories when planning your meals in the city so you know what to expect. Though the categories have become somewhat muddled over the years I’ve lived in Italy—now you can find fine-dining establishments that style themselves as an osteria, and trattorie sporting Michelin stars—this basic breakdown remains a helpful guide.

A ristorante generally offers a more upscale dining experience, with white tablecloths, gourmet menus, and an extensive wine list. Our family chooses this option to celebrate special occasions or for a dressy date night. However, a trattoria is the go-to option for most of our meals out, as it typically offers more casual service, traditional dishes, and a lively atmosphere. When we’re looking for a light bite paired with a great glass of wine, we book an osteria, or wine bar that offers small plates and finger foods.

All three of these types of businesses offer table service, but you can also go even more casual with options such as a tavola calda (cafeteria-style dining), rosticceria (deli with hot and cold dishes), or forno (bakery often selling pizza by-the-slice or focaccia sandwiches).

I remember a time when you could walk into most restaurants in Rome and grab a table on the fly, but the steady increase in annual visitor numbers and the rise of social media have meant that the most popular outposts for memorable Roman meals now fill up in advance.

If you’re visiting the city in the quieter months between November and March—aside from the Christmas and New Year’s holidays, of course—you can probably find a table at the last minute. But for the rest of the year, one of my top eating in Rome travel tips is to make reservations to ensure you don’t miss out on great Roman meals.

Many businesses take reservations online, though some require a phone call to book. Plan to reserve about 7–10 days in advance, unless you have your eye on stars such as Da Armando al Pantheon or Roscioli, two landmark Roman eateries that book out as soon as they open up their online calendars. There’s no need to book more than two weeks before your visit, however; indeed, many restaurants won’t even take reservations that far ahead of time.

Meals in Italy are traditionally divided into separate courses, both at home and when dining out. So expect to find at least four different sections on a Roman menu, from antipasti (starters) through primi (first courses, generally pasta and rice dishes) and secondi (second—or main—courses, generally meat and fish dishes), to dolci (desserts). Many restaurants do not include side dishes with their main courses, so you may also find a separate contorni (side dishes) section.

It took many meals of overstuffing myself to realize that you aren’t required to choose an item from each section of the menu. There are some Italians who can handle a 4-course meal, but the vast majority today will choose two courses—for example, a starter and a fish dish, or a pasta dish and a side—and perhaps a dessert, so feel free to do the same. It’s not considered good form, however, to occupy a table and order a single dish or two to share.

When dealing with a group, servers generally consolidate the courses so that food comes out for everyone together, even if some diners have chosen a starter and a pasta dish and others have chosen a pasta dish and a main.

Like many Italy novices, I was surprised on my first visit to learn that there’s no national “Italian cuisine,” but rather a patchwork of regional dishes deeply rooted in local history and tradition. Rome is no exception, and many of its most historic specialties are built around ingredients sourced in the hills surrounding the city. No Rome food guide for first-time visitors would be complete without a primer on the classics to try when dining in the city.

Go-to Roman starters include carciofi alla giudia (deep-fried whole artichokes), supplì (breaded and deep-fried rice balls), and fried zucchini flowers stuffed with sheep ricotta. Pasta rules supreme in the city, and the four classic Roman pasta dishes are carbonara, cacio e pepe, amatriciana, and gricia (a tomato-less amatriciana).

Offal has long been a Roman staple, but less adventurous eaters can opt for saltimbocca (sautéed veal scallops), roasted lamb, or oxtail stew, paired with side dishes ranging from carciofi alla romana (braised artichokes) to puntarelle (chicory shoots). To sample a variety of Roman specialties in one go, consider taking a food tour through one of the city’s culinary hubs, such as Trastevere.

Related: Food in Rome: 9 Quintessentially Roman Dishes and Where To Eat Them

Tipping at restaurants is not part of traditional Italian culture, and the vast majority of Italians do not tip their servers. At most, they may leave a few coins (generally the change if paying the bill in cash) as a friendly gesture, but tipping is neither obligatory nor expected. That said, if you feel more comfortable leaving a tip, 10 percent is considered generous.

There are a few charges you will commonly see added to your bill automatically at Roman restaurants, and it’s nothing to be alarmed about. This is customary practice, and you’ll find the amounts listed in the fine print on your menu. The most typical is the coperto (cover charge), sometimes also called pane (bread) or servizio (service). This is not a tip, but a charge per person to cover the cost of table service. Larger groups may also be charged a servizio, which is a percentage of the final bill and works more like a gratuity.