Know Before You Go: Visiting the Dolomites

There’s hardly a bad time to visit the Dolomites, but the tail ends of winter and summer in February and September are best for snow sports and hiking, respectively. Cortina d’Ampezzo, the ski-resort town affectionately called the “Queen of the Dolomites,” and the Val di Fassa in the Trentino-Alto Adige region, are almost exclusively winter sports destinations, so they become quiet outside of ski season, which typically runs from November to May.

At lower elevations, the winter snow tends to melt away by mid-June, clearing paths for hikers. The best time for trekking between mountain huts is generally from late June through October, but the exact dates can vary based on snowfall and the weather.

As a mountain range spanning three Italian regions full of nature reserves and national parks, the Dolomites can make even the most experienced travel planner’s head spin. To get started, make your entry point a mid-sized town catering to travelers along major train routes, such as Bolzano and Trento in the Trentino–Alto Adige region. The fastest trains reach Bolzano from Rome in about five hours. If you prefer a more subdued starting point, though, smaller towns such as Ortisei and San Cassiano make excellent hiking bases as well.

While Cortina d’Ampezzo, which comprises part of the Dolomiti Superski area, lies in the Veneto region on the eastern side of the mountain range, and is harder to reach by train, it’s an ideal base for Dolomites skiing and snowboarding trips.

Bring sturdy hiking shoes whenever you visit. In summer, pack light, with layered clothing and protection against unpredictable weather. Skiers and snowboarders (and snowshoers) should bring typical gear, including base layers, ski pants, and a waterproof shell. Overnight hikers can pack lighter, as rifugi often have facilities for washing and drying clothes.

Insider tip: The Dolomites may be far from Italy’s beaches, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t pack a swimsuit. You can swim in smaller lakes during the summer, or visit the thermal baths in Merano, near Bolzano.

The Trentino–Alto Adige region is predominantly German-speaking (Italy annexed it from the Austro-Hungarian Empire after World War I), creating a unique mix of cultures—and things to do—in the Dolomites. When hiking and skiing lose their appeal, you can taste Italian sparkling wine produced around Trento, or Santa Maddalena (Italian red) and gewürztraminer (German white) near Bolzano. Head above the wine-growing valleys to sample lagers and wheat beers In the Lavarella rifugio, home to Europe’s highest microbrewery.

The South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology in Bolzano chronicles the life of Ötzi the Iceman—a Copper Age–era mummy that was naturally preserved in the area's ice—in Italian, German, and English. If you'd prefer to see the Dolomites without the strenuous activity, the Great Dolomites Road passes through South Tyrol, Trentino, and Veneto on a scenic Dolomites travel itinerary.

If there’s one Dolomites travel tip to follow, it’s "find a way to explore the outdoors." Happily, there are a range of tours that make it easy. Day trips from Lake Garda, Cortina d’Ampezzo, and even Verona travel through scenic mountain passes on the way to small mountainside towns such as the picture-perfect Ortisei, where you can easily reach ski spots and mountain trails, without needing to worry about logistics.

Meanwhile, hiking, skiing, and canyoning tours provide all the gear and know-how for outdoor adventure seekers. Otherwise, bike tours cycle on scenic mountain roads and sometimes stop at breweries and wineries.

Among the Dolomites’ outdoor attractions, the eight Alta Via (“high route”) long-distance hiking trails attract the most adventurous travelers. Start with Alta Via 1, which cuts 75 miles (120 kilometers) through the east side of the mountains from Lake Braies (Lago di Braies) to Belluno. Plan for 8–9 days of hiking with stays at mountain huts—and be sure to book your stays well in advance. The high season from July to September is hard to avoid, as the weather makes hiking at other times challenging.

Insider tip: Trailheads are accessible via public transportation from Dobbacio in the north and Belluno in the south.

The Italian government, in partnership with the Dolomites UNESCO Foundation, aims to make the mountains accessible for everyone, including people with disabilities, the elderly, and children. According to the foundation, there are 36 accessible trails (though some require off-road wheelchairs) and 13 panoramic viewpoints that are reachable via accessible lift systems. The Alleghe Lakeside Trail and the Stenico Art Woodland Trail, each less than 2.5 miles (4 kilometers) long, are great accessible walking options.

The Renon cable car whisks travelers from Bolzano to the Renon High Plateau in wheelchair-accessible cabins; the Seiser Alm cable car is also wheelchair-accessible. Public transportation in South Tyrol–Alto Adige typically features low-floor buses and trains, reserved spaces for wheelchairs and strollers, and free rides for people who are blind.

• Are the Dolomites the tallest mountains in Italy? No, the Dolomites are not the tallest mountains in Italy. Monte Bianco, part of the Graian Alps Range, is the tallest mountain in Italy. Generally, the western Italian Alps are higher than the Dolomites. That said, the Dolomites have many peaks rising to more than 10,000 feet (3,050 meters)—the highest, Marmolada, reaches nearly 11,000 feet (3,350 meters).

• What languages do they speak in the Dolomites? The Dolomites is a tri-lingual region where locals speak Italian, German, and Ladin. In South Tyrol–Alto Adige, you’re more likely to encounter German than Italian, though locals tend to speak both languages. Ladin, an ancient Romance language spoken by the first inhabitants of the area, is less common than the others.

• What is the most picturesque village in the Dolomites? There are too many picturesque mountain villages in the Dolomites to count, but Ortisei, ensconced in the heart of the scenic Val Gardena area, is one of the loveliest. It has a lively pedestrian area with traditional turn-of-the-century architecture, and is surrounded by spectacular mountain peaks easily reachable via multiple funicular lines.

• What are the mountain huts in the Dolomites like? The mountain rifugi are typically comfortable mountain inns with a bar, restaurant, and simple overnight accommodations, either in dormitories or single rooms. You can stop by for a beer along your hiking route, or stay overnight on multi-day hikes. The higher in elevation you go, the simpler the hut—some offer beds, shelter, and little else.