This Tuk-Tuk Tour Helped Me Conquer Lisbon’s Famous Hills

When we met with our guide João along the main Avenida da Liberdade just hours after my arrival, I still wasn’t convinced. Sure, I could see the undulating city spreading out on all sides of the city’s main boulevard, but the walk from my friend’s apartment to the meeting point just across Rossio Square from the palace-like facade of the Rossio Railway Station was a breeze. I sighed inwardly and wondered what I’d gotten myself into.

However, João’s warm welcome and ice-breaker chat went a long way to assuage my fears that this was no cookie-cutter tourist experience. Before we boarded, we spent a few minutes chatting about our interests and what we wanted the focus of the tour to be, which was ideal for newbies like us and returning visitors alike. “We can cover the main sights and a few of my favorite hidden corners,” he explained, “or we can customize the itinerary to include specific sights or neighborhoods you want to see.” We told him that we were architecture buffs and especially loved the Art Nouveau buildings we’d seen dotted around the city, but were otherwise newcomers and excited to get an overview of the top sights and neighborhoods.

With that, it was time to head off. There were two steps to climb into the tuk-tuk, and I was glad that I’d worn loose-fitting jeans and comfortable shoes—tight pants or flip-flops would have made getting in and out of the tuk-tuk a hassle, especially as we ended up stopping to get a better look at sights and views numerous times during the tour. And though there was a canvas top for shade, the open sides let in tons of light, so sunglasses and sunblock were a must, even in early spring. We also brought light sweaters to stay warm when the cool Atlantic breeze started to pick up from the west, something that came and went in the fickle coastal city.

As he deftly wove his way through the historic Baixa District, João gave us an introduction to the city’s history—it was easy to follow his commentary since the electric tuk-tuk was very quiet—and we were dazzled by its elegant 18th-century neoclassical boulevards and townhouses built after an earthquake razed much of the city in 1755. This largely flat area that sits at the bottom of the Avenida da Liberdade is also home to many of Lisbon’s high-end shops and restaurants, but I was still convinced that we could have explored equally well on foot.

Well, I was. Until we began to climb. And climb. And climb some more. We buzzed up the hillside to Alfama, one of the most historic and atmospheric neighborhoods in the city, where Fado music clubs and quirky boutiques sit shoulder-to-shoulder at the base of St. George’s Castle (Castelo de São Jorge). We zipped past the Saturday morning Feira da Ladra flea market and Lisbon Cathedral, then passed the storied Mouraria district before pausing to take in the view from the Miradouro da Senhora do Monte on the neighboring Graça hilltop. All the while, we noted João’s tips about the best spots to listen to Fado, shop for ceramics, and have a nightcap, grateful for the immediate insider insight to inform the rest of our stay in Lisbon.

The gravity-defying climbs weren’t over, and I soon realized why João made sure we buckled our seatbelts each time we set off—those restraints kept us from sliding right out of the tuk-tuk as we zigzagged our way up the opposite slopes of the Chiado district and into the Bairro Alto. João pointed out his favorite landmark bookshops, hidden Fado clubs, and locals-only eateries as we explored these storied (and steep) neighborhoods. We stopped to visit the ornate Basilica da Estrela, take in the view from the Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara, and sip a coffee at a panoramic café tucked far from the tourist crowds. Though I’d been a little worried that a tuk-tuk tour would equal no time to stretch my legs or really soak in the sights, I was proven quite wrong.

I was also impressed with how João maintained a lively commentary about Lisbon’s landmarks and culture while navigating the twisting lanes of its most historic neighborhoods. He was able to keep us engaged for the full 3-hour tour, answering our questions and pausing at spots he thought might interest us most, from architectural treasures to artisan workshops. His background as an archaeologist shone through as he enthusiastically explained Lisbon’s history from the Phoenicians and ancient Rome through the political upheavals of the 20th century, and his love of food and music inspired flawless recommendations for dining and music performances that we could borrow from for the rest of the weekend.

What impressed me most, however, was how much of the city we were able to savor in just a few hours. After summiting four or five of Lisbon’s legendary seven hills on board our trusty tuk-tuk, I was forced to admit that it would have been impossible to experience even a fraction of what we had seen that morning on foot—or even by public transportation. And no guidebook would have been able to transmit the city’s vibrant culture and fascinating history with the passion and humor of João. I may not be a tuk-tuk convert, but I came away with the conviction that for Lisbon, at least, it’s the only way to go.

This tour was provided courtesy of Viator.