Pro Samba Dancer Liani Devito’s Guide to Rio de Janeiro

Samba is not exclusive to Rio—it can be found throughout Brazil. However, when it comes to the immersive samba experience, with its samba schools and professional dancers, Rio is unrivaled. “Rio de Janeiro is the capital of Brazilian samba and samba schools,” says Devito, who admits that while other cities and states have great samba, there’s “no comparison” to Rio, where you can watch the Carnival parade in the Sambadrome as well as learn to dance samba from the city's professionals. See the daily shows at the Samba Social Clube kiosk at Copacabana Beach or the live events of Samba do Trabalhador in Grajaú, which run every Monday. But for a truly authentic experience, Devito recommends visiting the samba schools themselves. “Salgueiro and Estácio de Sá are amazing places to visit and safe to get to. Sometimes the samba schools are super far away, but both are in Tijuca, so it’s close by.”

Salgueiro offers samba classes every Tuesday and Thursday with Carlinhos Salgueiro, the director of the school's passistas. “His classes are really good. It’s the best style there is,” Devito says. Estácio de Sá, the world's first samba school, holds rehearsals on Mondays that are open to the public. “It’s amazing to watch and experience that community feeling,” she adds.

Rio de Janeiro is home to several iconic attractions that live up to the hype. “If it’s your first time in Rio, you absolutely have to visit Sugarloaf Mountain (Pao de Açúcar) and Christ the Redeemer Statue (Cristo Redentor),” Devito says. “It’s a must-do because the views are really amazing.” You can combine both landmarks on a guided tour that includes hotel transport, or add on a stop at the Sambadrome for a full day of city sightseeing. And while Rio may be Brazil's second-largest city after São Paulo, it’s not just a concrete giant: It's also home to the Tijuca National Park, one of the world’s largest urban forests, popular for hiking and waterfall dips as well as impressive Botanical Garden (Jardim Botanico), where native plants from the Tijuca Forest blend with a curated collection of exotic plants.

For Devito, there’s one activity that you can’t miss in Rio: “Go to the beach. That’s no question,” she says. The question is, however, which beach to choose? There are plenty of options: Copacabana Beach is iconic, with its famous black and white promenade, while Ipanema Beach offers the classic Rio view framed by the Morro Dois Irmãos. Both beaches get packed on the weekends, so if you're looking for a quieter spot, consider Ilha Grande to the south of the state or Búzios to the north, where you can enjoy peaceful beaches with bars and restaurants nearby. For the best sunset views, head to Arpoador Beach, next to Ipanema. Or, for a day trip, venture just outside the city to the Wild Beaches such as Prainha Beach for untouched white sand surrounded by forest.

All that samba and sightseeing will work up an appetite, and there’s no better way to refuel in Rio than with classic Brazilian food. For breakfast, try pão de queijo (cheese bread) and a freshly made fruit juice; for lunch, opt for feijoada (black bean stew) or moqueca (seafood stew), and for dinner, enjoy a rodízio, an all-you-can-eat meat feast. If you still have room, açaí—usually served on its own or with granola and fruit—is a hearty snack.

Devito’s preferred places to graze on classic Brazilian favorites are located in the upscale Leblon neighborhood. Despite its popularity with Rio’s elite, Leblon is also home to several laid-back and affordable traditional bars, or botecos, that serve as both bars and restaurants. “My favorite restaurant is Boteco Rainha,” Devito says. “It’s local and not overpriced.” She also recommends Jobi in Leblon, another beloved boteco known for its extra cold beers, strong caipirinhas, bar snacks, and generous meal portions.

For the best accessibility and proximity to Rio’s famous landmarks, the South Zone (Zona Sul) offers the most convenient accommodation options. Other popular areas include the beachside neighborhoods of Copacabana and Ipanema, as well as the trendy Botafogo region, known for its vibrant bar scene. Devito’s choice of home base is Leblon: “It’s easy to get around and you’ll find everything here—great shopping, restaurants, and bars. It’s also good for people-watching,” she says. Another neighborhood she recommends is Urca, a peaceful area close to Guanabara Bay which is a handful of traditional bars and restaurants, and is also close to both Red Beach (Praia Vermelha) and Sugarloaf Mountain. “There aren’t many tourists there,” she says. “It’s very local and homey.”