The “heel” of Italy’s boot-shaped peninsula, Puglia has claimed its place in the travel limelight after centuries of obscurity. Once visitors discovered its scenic coastline and countryside, flamboyant architecture, and unparalleled cuisine, it was only a matter of time before word of this region’s wonders spread. Today, travelers keep busy exploring Bari and Lecce, marveling at Alberobello’s trulli and the hill towns of the Val d’Itria, discovering the sea caves near Polignano a Mare, and delving into the local cuisine with wine and olive oil tastings, food tours, and cooking lessons.
Puglia’s most spirited season is also its most challenging for visitors. Summer brings fabulous folklore festivals featuring traditional pizzica dancing and intricate colored lights called luminarie—but it also brings scorching Mediterranean temperatures and high-season crowds. Plan a spring or fall visit to tour with milder temperatures and no throngs; you can even catch the first or final luminarie of the season during the feast day of San Nicola in Bari (May) or Carosino’s feast day of San Biagio Vescovo (October).
Though rail and bus lines connect the region’s larger cities, the most efficient and convenient way to explore Puglia’s hill towns, countryside, and coastline is by car. Hill towns, coastal villages, and major cities all have parking areas within walking distance of their centers and main sights and are compact enough to be explored on foot once you’ve parked. The relatively flat terrain of much of Puglia also makes for scenic cycling, but there are no dedicated bike lanes, so use caution when exploring on two wheels.
With Puglia’s Salento peninsula lapped by the Adriatic Sea to the east and the Ionian Sea to the west, locals keep a close watch on the weather report before heading to the beach for the day. When there are strong winds from the north (called the “tramontana” in Italian), the Ionian beaches offer calmer water and balmier temperatures. Winds from the south, known as the “scirocco,” stir up the Ionian Sea and make the Adriatic side the more pleasant choice.
