Long overshadowed by Tuscany just to the north, understated Umbria can easily hold its own against its limelight-stealing neighbor. Venture into Italy’s heartland to explore rolling hills that resemble Giotto’s masterpieces come to life, hilltop villages anchored by richly frescoed basilicas, rustic trattorias serving traditional fare, and postcard-perfect landscapes from the shores of Lake Trasimeno to the dramatic Apennine peaks. Umbria isn’t all idyllic scenery and sleepy hamlets, however. From spring to fall, top things to do include raucous village celebrations and world-class music and art festivals.
Winters in Umbria are long and wet—there’s a reason that the region is known as one of Italy’s greenest. With the first warm days of spring, Umbrian villages come to life with seasonal celebrations, from the medieval-themed Calendimaggio in Assisi to the flower-strewn streets of Spello for the Infiorate. Summer brings Umbria Jazz, one of Italy’s top music festivals, and fall is the peak season for food festivals celebrating olive oil, truffles, and other regional delicacies.
It’s quick and easy to travel by train between the main towns along the Umbrian Valley, including Spoleto, Spello, Assisi, and Perugia. Getting to far-flung destinations like Orvieto, Gubbio, and Lake Trasimeno by public transportation can be more of a challenge, however, and a rental car is your best bet for exploring the region without the hassle and delays of local buses or trains.
One of Umbria’s under-the-radar local specialties is porchetta, a whole, deboned pig flavored with an aromatic seasoning of fresh rosemary, sage, garlic, and black pepper, then slowly roasted on a revolving spit until the rind is crackling and the meat buttery. You won’t find this delicacy in restaurants, however. Instead, look for white porchetta street trucks parked by the side of the road or at the morning markets, and join the line for a sandwich piled high with freshly-sliced pork.
