The northeastern region of Friuli Venezia Giulia is about as far-flung as you can get while staying within Italy’s borders. The melting-pot vibe of this reserved, less-touristed corner of the country reflects its geography, with neighbors Austria and Slovenia heavily influencing the local culture, cuisine, and even dialect. Experience a side of Italy far from the beaten path in the historic coffeehouses of Trieste and Udine, magnificent peaks of the Carnic Alps, and vineyards quietly turning out blockbuster wines tucked in between—there are plenty of things to do in this unique region.
When the icy sea breeze whips up from the Adriatic during winter, the Triestini take refuge in their coffeehouses and the Udinesi under their porticoes. However, with spring’s balmy temperatures, the cities and countryside bustle with activity again. Friuli Venezia Giulia’s northern mountains offer a spectacular setting for hiking and cycling in the summer months, while the lovely towns host an array of outdoor concerts and festivals through the fall.
Though regional trains connect Trieste, Udine, and other major urban centers in Friuli Venezia Giulia, the best way to explore its smaller towns, wine country, and Alpine countryside is on wheels. Rent a car (or a bike in this cycling-friendly region) to skirt the coastline from Lignano Sibbiadoro to Trieste, then turn inland to town-hop past Gorizia, Cividale del Friuli, and Udine into the Alps to Tarvisio and Sappada on the Austrian border.
Italy’s most famous prosciutto may hail from Parma in the region of Emilia Romagna, but true ham enthusiasts know that the country’s premium cured haunches are produced instead in the tiny village of San Daniele di Friuli at the foot of the Alps. Italian-raised heirloom pork, sea salt harvested from the Adriatic, and a unique microclimate in the Tagliamento River valley produce the sweet and aromatic aged Prosciutto di San Daniele that is worth making a culinary pilgrimage to sample.
