Know Before You Go: Attending the Venice Carnival

The Venice Carnival is an annual celebration that traces its roots back to the pagan traditions of ancient Rome. Adopted by the early Christians, the holiday evolved into a few days of disguises, dancing, dining—and drinking—just before the Lenten period of repentance that precedes Easter. Venice took this overindulgence to new heights, and the city has hosted elaborate Carnevale festivities more or less continuously since the 12th century. Today’s version also honors the Venetian baroque style of the 17th and 18th centuries with period costumes and masquerade balls.

Insider tip: Hotels, restaurants, and balls sell out months before the Venice Carnival begins, so book all the elements of your trip well in advance to avoid disappointment.

The dates of Venice’s Carnevale change each year depending on when Ash Wednesday falls on the calendar. The city generally holds events and performances for about two weeks, and the celebrations culminate in blow-out festivities for Martedì Grasso (Shrove Tuesday). This period almost always falls between late January and mid-February, but the exact dates depend on the date of Easter. (Ash Wednesday is always 40 days before Easter, excluding Sundays.)

Insider tip: To calculate future Venice Carnival dates, start by looking at that year’s Ash Wednesday and count backward over three weekends. Venice usually kicks off festivities three Saturdays (18 days) before Ash Wednesday.

The Venice Carnival’s program of events changes each year, but a few traditional high points always take place: The festivities kick off on the opening Saturday with a floating procession down the Grand Canal, which takes place after sunset and features hundreds of costumed figures, dancers, and musicians who perform on boats that glide from the Santa Lucia train station past St. Mark’s Square.

The second weekend is marked by the Procession of the Marias, which concludes in the daring descent from St. Mark’s bell tower known as the Flight of the Angel. On Fat Tuesday, Venetians gather in St. Mark’s Square to cheer as a massive banner of the Venetian Lion is unfurled above the crowd to signal the end of Carnevale.

Insider tip: The Venice Carnival publishes the official calendar of events online, including costume parades and contests, street theater and open-air performances, historic boat processions, and balls.

Many of Venice’s Carnival festivities are free and open to the public without admission tickets—and are very crowded, especially on weekends. But to participate in one of the city’s exclusive masquerade balls, you must buy a ticket. The most spectacular balls are held in historic palaces and theaters, and tickets sell out well in advance, so plan ahead; tickets can be reserved online via each event’s website. Balls include live entertainment that ranges from music and dancing to theater or pantomime performances.

Insider tip: Each of the balls has its own dress code, and all attendees must wear a mask; specialty shops in the city have costumes you can rent for these balls (or just for fun).

Except for the masquerade balls, Venice’s Carnival celebrations are all held outdoors. The Grand Canal and St. Mark’s Square—the largest and most important public spaces in the city—are the main venues for the festivities, but there are also costume parades, music, dancing, acrobatics, and other performances in smaller squares throughout central Venice and on the outlying islands of Murano and Burano.

Insider tip: To avoid the worst crowds, steer clear of the Grand Canal and St. Mark’s Square and head to quieter secondary squares on a hidden Venice walking tour.

Most visitors to Venice during Carnival do not dress in baroque costumes, and there is no dress code unless you attend one of the masquerade balls. Since the festivities are held outdoors, and Carnival usually falls in January and February, you should choose warm, water-resistant clothing that can stand up to the city’s cold and damp winter weather. If you want, you can join the revelry by purchasing a mask at one of the city’s many shops and stands; simple eye coverings can be had for just a few euros while elaborate period masks can cost several hundred.

Insider tip: You can create a custom mask by taking a hands-on mask-making class at a Venetian workshop.

Carnival in Venice is over the top in every way, including in its rich cuisine. You’ll notice the sweet scent of fritters wafting through the streets as fritoleri ply passersby with piping hot frìtole, dollops of fried dough studded with candied fruit and pine nuts. You’ll also find seasonal delights such as strips of crisp, sugar-dusted dough called cenci (also known as frappe or chiacchiere); custard-filled castagnole fritters; and sweet fried ravioli. You can sample Carnival sweets at pastry shops, restaurants, and pop-up food stands in the weeks leading up to Shrove Tuesday.

Insider tip: Get an overview of traditional Venetian cuisine on a food tour to taste classic cicchetti snacks, Veneto wines, and other savory and sweet specialties.

Though Venice is flat and closed to vehicle traffic, many of the pedestrian bridges that span the city’s iconic canals have steps, so if you’re using a wheelchair, you must plot your route in advance. St. Mark’s Square is accessible, as is the vaporetto (water bus) line that stops there, and you can also find viewing spots along the Grand Canal that are accessible. To visit the city’s top sights, join a wheelchair accessible tour that navigates around the city’s many architectural barriers.

Insider tip: By Italian law, hotels of a certain size must have an accessible room, but travelers should be aware that this doesn’t mean that there will be an accessible way to reach the hotel.

• How old is the Venice Carnival? The Carnivale celebrations in Venice probably date back to the 12th century, though festivities have been suspended several times throughout history. The celebration in its current form has been held since 1979.
• How many people visit the Venice Carnival each year? About 3 million visitors attend the Carnival celebrations in Venice each year, and the weekends when the main events occur are exceptionally crowded.
• What costumes do people wear for the Venice Carnival? The most important element of a traditional Venetian Carnival costume is a mask, and there are a variety of different styles of historic maschere you can choose from: The most common styles are the square bauta and round volto, the Colombina eye mask, and the long-nosed medico della peste. The rest of the costume can be as simple as a long black cloak or as elaborate as a baroque-style gown or suit in velvet, brocade, and lace.
• How much does it cost to attend the Venice Carnival? Most events held during Venice’s Carnival celebrations are free to the public, but you do have to pay to attend private balls. Tickets to these sumptuous parties can cost a few hundred to a few thousand euros per person; many balls have a dress code, so attendees must also rent an expensive period costume.