When to visit
The city truly comes to life in the summer, when it hosts a number of festivals, including the world’s largest performing arts festival, the Fringe Festival. This is peak season, though, so summer visitors should be prepared to contend with large crowds and higher-than-normal hotel rates. Spring is a good alternative if you’re not planning to attend the festival; the city is particularly beautiful when the flowers in parks and gardens are in full bloom.
Getting around
Most of the main attractions in the city centre can easily be reached on foot—in fact, wandering around the history-filled streets is the best way to get a feel for the city. If you need to travel longer distances, to see attractions like the Royal Yacht Britannia in Leith and St Andrews, take advantage of the city’s convenient bus services. You can buy tickets on the bus, but you’ll need exact change.
The city’s tram network is of little use to visitors unless you fly in and/or out of Edinburgh Airport. Trams run from the city centre to the main terminal between every 7–10 minutes. The ride takes around 30 minutes, and you can purchase your ticket in advance online or from the vending machines in the station.
Traveler tips
The Secret Herb Garden, which is nestled in farmland on the edge of the Pentland Hills, on the outskirts of the city, is an ideal place to escape the crowds. Spend a few relaxing hours wandering the grounds, shop for potted herbs, have a coffee or lunch in the vine-filled café and bistro, and pick up a bottle of gin from the on-site distillery.
For the best afternoon tea, book a table at the posh Balmoral Hotel. For the best view of the city, don’t head to High Street. Instead, climb to the top of Arthur’s Seat, a hill in Holyrood Park. And if you’re a fan of the world’s most famous teenage wizard, choose from more than a dozen guided Harry Potter tours. The city served as a major source of inspiration for author J.K. Rowling.
If your visit coincides with the Fringe Festival, usually held in August, make sure to book your accommodations as far in advance as possible. In 2023 the festival sold more than 2.3 million tickets. And if you’d like to attend any of the performances, don’t plan on rocking up and purchasing a ticket day-of, especially if it’s a headlining act. And this isn’t Coachella. Wear comfortable shoes that you can walk around in (the venues are located throughout the city), and bring a rain jacket. Yes, it’s August, but this is Scotland after all. Finally, if you’re on a budget, you’re in luck. Some of the Fringe performers (they come from all over the world) put on free shows.