Know Before You Go: Celebrating the Fête des Lumières in Lyon

The largest lights festival in France, the Fête des Lumières is celebrated annually over the weekend that falls closest to December 8. The Fête des Lumières essentially consists of a grand production of shimmering holiday displays, featuring dozens of light installations which span up to 30 city locations. And, as an added bonus, it's completely free to access.

Insider tip: Take cash for roasted chestnuts and vin chaud (French mulled wine) available for sale from street vendors. You’ll be outside a lot, and Lyon is chilly at this time of year, so you’ll be thankful for the (warm) sustenance.

The origins of the festival can be traced back to as early as the mid–17th century. In 1643, the plague ravaged the south of France, and the citizens of Lyon turned to the Virgin Mary for help by climbing to the top of Fourvière Hill (where the Fourvière Basilica now stands) to ask for her protection. On this occasion, the plague stopped at the city’s confines, and Lyon was spared. As part remembrance and part celebration, pilgrims then have regularly made annual journeys to the top of Fourvière Hill on September 8.

In 1852, a local sculptor, Joseph-Hugues Fabisch, was commissioned to create a giant statue of the Virgin Mary to adorn Fourvière Hill to be unveiled on September 8. Unfortunately, the River Saône burst its banks and flooded the sculptor’s workshop.

The unveiling was pushed back until December 8, when residents from the city center, all the way to Fourvière, placed lit candles in their windows. This is why the festival is officially said to date from 1852.

There's never a dull moment during the Fête des Lumières in Lyon. Each year sees art installations (some of which include short films), that only become more impressive with each festival iteration. Although the creations change annually, some parts of the city always have huge, crowd-worthy displays, including the Hôtel de Ville, Place Bellecour, Cathédrale Saint-Jean, and the Parc de la Tête d’Or.

This giant festival is also an excuse for an accompanying giant party, so look out for organized music and dance performances across the city, impromptu concerts on street corners, and prepare for bars, clubs, and restaurants to overflow with revelers.

Some of the festival’s past highlights have included "Evanescent" by Atelier Sisu, which took place at Place Bellecour. It consisted of bubble megastructures that glistened during the day and cast a vibrant rainbow hue by night. There was also Nohlab's "in-line v360" at Place Antonin Poncet, which continuously transformed a circular screen into new and changing patterns. Then there was Guillaume Marmin's "Passengers" at Place d'Albon, a kaleidoscope display that looked like something out of The Matrix.

When you’re done with the Fête des Lumières festivities, you can also take a walking excursion around the Old Town, try some of Lyon’s famed dishes, or take an offbeat tour of the city.

Insider tip: It’s impossible to avoid the crowds, but the quietest day is Thursday.

The biggest problem people find when visiting Lyon for the Fête des Lumières is finding somewhere to stay, as hotels book up months in advance. Many locals leave town and rent out their apartments on Airbnb (but expect costs far higher than what you’d usually pay). Also, keep in mind that as most of the action takes place in the city center—around the Presqu’Île; Croix-Rousse; Vieux Lyon; and the 7th, 3rd, and 6th arrondissements—accommodation here is at a premium. If you can’t find anything within your price range, look to outlying boroughs close to metro lines, such as Villeurbanne, Caluire-et-Cuire, Vaulx-en-Velin, Vénissieux, Vaise, or Oullins.

With nightly light shows, art installations, and music performances, there’s plenty to see and do after sunset during the Fête des Lumières, and hiring a private guide is the ideal way to experience the illuminations. The festive season is also an atmospheric time to explore Lyon, so be sure to make the most of the daylight hours, too.

Stroll through the cobbled lanes and traboules (alleyways) of Old Lyon (Vieux Lyon), take a walking tour of the Croix-Rousse neighborhood, or go sightseeing by pedicab. You can also find out why Lyon is France’s gastronomic capital on a foodie tour of the famous Les Halles Market or go wine tasting in the Beaujolais wine region.

Situated on the cusp of the French Alps, winters in Lyon can be cold, and temperatures in December can drop below 32°F (0°C). All of the light shows and illuminations take place outside, so even if it’s not snowing, you’re likely to get cold. Wrap up in a snuggly coat, a woolly hat, gloves, and thick socks to stay warm, and bring an umbrella (just in case!). Finally, wear comfy shoes, as you’ll quickly clock up some steps walking between the different sites.

The Fête des Lumières is committed to ensuring that all light shows are accessible to those with disabilities or limited mobility. In addition, there are usually some adapted artworks that incorporate written descriptions, vibrating jackets, or sign-language displays.

Look out for the helpers wearing green high-vis jackets at the Tête d'Or Park Information Point who can help you with free wheelchair rentals, escorted tours, and other access requirements. You can also find parking for people with disabilities along Rue Charles Biennier (near Place Bellecour) and Boulevard des Belges (near Tête d'Or Park), and accessible restrooms behind the Tourist Office on Place Bellecour.

• How long does the Fête des Lumières last? The light festival in Lyon runs for four days every December.
• Is the Fête des Lumières family-friendly? Yes, there are special family-friendly installations at the Fête des Lumières every year, making it ideal for visitors with children.
• Is there information available in English for international visitors? Though this Festival of Lights is in Lyon, France, there is information available in English available on the official website for Fête des Lumières.
• Can I take photographs and videos during the Fête des Lumières? Yes, you can, unless told otherwise by event staff.
• How do I get to Lyon? The airport, Lyon-Saint Exupéry, is under half an hour from the city center using the Rhônexpress. Regular high-speed trains also run between Paris Gare de Lyon and Lyon Part Dieu and will have you arriving in Lyon from Paris in under two hours.