Laos is a country that travelers often omit when visiting Southeast Asia—yet, once visited, it proves impossible to forget. From the mysterious Plain of Jars to rocks infused with dinosaur bones, from the lazy charm of Si Phan Don (Four Thousand Islands) to the soaring eaves of Luang Prabang, every type of traveler will find things to do in Laos. With the exception of Vang Vieng, a tourist-oriented town in the nation’s center, Laos remains largely unspoiled. Fascinating tribal cultures sit alongside fine French restaurants, while simple stilt homes nestle beside gilded stupas.
Like much of Southeast Asia, Laos has two seasons: the dry season, which is hot and sunny, and the rainy season, which is hot, wet, and humid. Patchy road conditions mean travel is generally easiest during the dry season, roughly from October to May. But if you’re hoping to cruise the Mekong, you’ll want to visit during the wet season, when waters are higher. Smoke from agricultural burning can be an issue from March through May.
The Chinese high-speed rail system has transformed transportation in Laos, slashing journey times between Luang Prabang, Vientiane, Vang Vieng, and beyond. Off the rails, however, travel remains an old-fashioned affair. Cities and countryside feature a bewildering array of tuk-tuks, pickups, and similar vehicles; bus journeys are long and slow; and Mekong river trips are at the mercy of weather conditions. But it’s not all ba:. Limited traffic means Vientiane and Luang Prabang are a delight to walk in.
Eating out mindfully in Laos can mean a taste sensation, too. In Luang Prabang, try Tamarind, run by a husband-and-wife team. The restaurant serves traditional Lao dishes sustainably sourced from small-scale suppliers, and the team even runs a cooking school here, too. In Vientiane, head to Doi Ka Noi, run by Laos’ only Slow Food member, Ponpailin “Noi” Kaewduangdy, who often picks ingredients from her garden.
