How I Overcame My Fear of Sharks—by Swimming With Them
I’d just submerged 40 feet (12 meters) in the waters surrounding the Yasawa Islands of Fiji, when a 12-foot (3.6-meter) bull shark suddenly appeared in the distance. The divemaster and several shark handlers, who held metal poles to gently redirect any sharks from bumping into us, guided us over to a man-made rock wall, where I kneeled in terror. A tornado of bull sharks swirled nearby, but as I made eye contact with the dozen or so sharks swimming past, I didn’t sense any malice from them.
Until I discovered diving, I was petrified of sharks. In my misguided youth I thought that we should destroy them all. Selfishly, I considered only my own desire to swim freely in the sea. I didn’t realize my shark fear was part of a media-fueled public frenzy based on movies like Jaws, a 1975 thriller that led to such an extreme shark population decline that the film director, Steven Spielberg, felt terrible about the legacy he left behind.
It was only recently that I went scuba diving for the first time in Bora Bora, where I also swam in Bora Bora’s Lagoonarium while snorkeling among stingrays and sharks. I felt a tinge of fear when I dipped into the shark-infested waters, but that feeling quickly dissipated as the reef sharks simply swam around me, ignoring my presence. That was my first time swimming near sharks, and my heart began to soften toward them.
Fiji was my next opportunity. I’d heard about a cageless bull shark dive in the Yasawa Islands. But this experience would be more daunting than my Bora Bora reef shark meet-cute. Bull sharks—much larger and more intimidating than mere reef sharks—are considered one of the most fearsome, aggressive, and territorial species. Yet bull shark attacks, like all shark attacks, are extremely rare. I wanted to see for myself.
To get to Fiji, I took an 11-hour flight with Fiji Airways from Los Angeles International Airport (LAX) to Nadi. After landing, I transfered from Nadi Airport to nearby Vuda Point Marina for a 35-minute boat ride to VOMO Private Island Resort. Located in the Mamanuca Islands, this all-inclusive luxury resort comes with all the bells and whistles, but I chose it for its PADI dive center and proximity to the bull shark dive just a 30-minute boat ride away.
Several shark and diving experiences, including the much easier Fiji snorkeling shark encounter, were available. However, I booked the advanced shark dive for certified divers that allowed us to dive to 60 feet (18 meters), which cost about US$400. With any wild animal encounter, ethics are always a consideration and I wanted to be certain that I didn’t contribute to harmful practices. On this dive, best practices were used for diver and shark safety, based on research by noted marine biologist and shark expert, Dr. Thomas Vignaud, PhD. Plus, there was an on-site marine biologist team using money earned from the dive to research sharks and preserve local marine life.
After the boat transfer from VOMO to Barefoot Kuata Island, we got a quick dive briefing. I also purchased the option of having a professional underwater photographer and videographer record the entire encounter so I could fully focus on the experience. While I was excited to learn that only one other diver would join me, I was secretly afraid of staring these giant beasts in the eye.
The boat ride to the dive site was choppy, but I didn’t get seasick. Once anchored, we immediately rolled into the water and began descending. As soon as my fins touched the sandy ocean floor, that bull shark I mentioned was already dancing in the distance.
Bull sharks—stouter and stockier than other breeds—can grow up to 13 feet (4 meters) in length and weigh up to 500 pounds (227 kilograms). Although that mass of bull sharks in front of me appeared as frightening as the fearsome creatures from overblown Hollywood movies, with neatly razored rows of teeth, they paid us little attention. (During the briefing our guide had explained that sharks have poor vision but can sense and avoid the metal poles.) It was purely thrilling, and totally wonderful, to be in the presence of such powerful creatures for 30 or so magical minutes.
Given just how incredible an experience it is to dive or swim alongside sharks, it's unsurprising that shark tourism continues to grow in popularity, with revenue expected to double over the next 20 years, from $314 million to $780 million annually. Unfortunately, a 2024 report reveals that shark fishing and finning are also increasing, despite a growing awareness of the importance of shark conservation. (According to some reports, about 100 million sharks and rays are killed annually, and sharks worldwide are starving from overfishing.) That’s why favorable shark encounters are so important. Experiences like mine give travelers a deeper connection and a better understanding of sharks while helping locals to appreciate the value in protecting vulnerable species when they see their monetary value for tourism.
After emerging from Fiji’s balmy waters, the other diver and I smiled at each other, beaming. There was no need for words. We'd shared an extraordinary experience, which obliterated any lingering fear of sharks. Since then, I’ve become a major shark fan and advocate. As a diver, protecting the oceans is of utmost priority. As apex predators, sharks have contributed to ocean health maintenance for over 450 million years and they have my deepest respect. After all, it’s their ocean, not ours.
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