Kyrgyzstan’s nickname—the Switzerland of Central Asia—doesn’t do this wonder justice. Over 90 percent of the terrain comprises hilly peaks, including the snowcapped Tian Shan range. Alpine lakes and high-altitude pastures or jailou provide nourishment to roving herds of horses. Look for the felted yurts: Kyrgyzstan is one of the last countries to practice nomadic pastoralism. Cities are scarce beyond Bishkek, the capital, and Osh, near the Uzbek border. What draws travelers here is the pristine natural setting—that, and Kyrgyz hospitality.
Alpine climbers and skiers can brave the snowfall from December to April. For everyone else, summer is the obvious season to visit Kyrgyzstan. That’s when pastoralists decamp from their villages with their herds and wile away the warm months in yurts high in the mountain pastures. Temperatures plummet above 6,000 feet (1,800 meters), so summer is your best weather window for high-altitude trekking or horseback riding.
Domestic flights link Bishkek to Osh in the south, a gateway to the Alay Valley near the Tajik border. For most other destinations, you’ll probably need a long-distance bus or a shared minivan taxi, still known by its Russian name: marshrutka. They link all major towns and villages. For anywhere further afield, consider a car hire or a guided excursion that includes transportation.
No traveler can leave Kyrgyzstan without downing a glass of kumis—consider it an initiation ritual. The creamy, fizzy, and slightly alcoholic beverage is made from fermented mare’s milk—it may take some getting used to, but it’s a favorite among horse-herding pastoralists. To truly eat like a nomad, also be sure to try the sour dried balls of yogurt known as kurt.
