A Brief History of the Wisconsin Fish Fry (and Where to Try It)
When it comes to the famed Wisconsin fish fry—fried fish, potato cakes, coleslaw, and a slice of rye bread—it all goes back to Milwaukee. Back then, the state’s largest city had the highest concentration of Germans anywhere in America. There were German beer halls, German schools, German newspapers—the works. Pabst, Schlitz, and Blatz all gained national acclaim by serving up pints of German lager in America’s “Brew City.” And what pairs well with German lager? Fish fry.
History of the Wisconsin fish fry
On Fridays, locals honored their German Catholic roots and avoided meat, ushering in the need for fish. And it was a convenient need at that: Lake Michigan, literally steps away, had a nearly endless supply of delectable, fresh, and cheap perch, walleye, and bluegill. If not at home, Milwaukeeans would gather at “roadhouses,” aka the state’s first “supper clubs,” or taverns, all reliable spots for a cold beer and a steaming Wisconsin fish fry. (Rumors state that taverns gave out fish fries for free during Prohibition in an effort to get customers, but that remains a wink-wink situation.)
Then WWII hit, and the Office of Price Administration restricted red meat consumption across the country—what was already a Milwaukee-led favorite became a state-wide Wisconsin tradition, one that would bleed into the rest of the Midwest and beyond. By the ‘50s and ‘60s, roadhouses had become supper clubs, and family-style fish fry restaurants popped up around nearly every Wisconsin corner. On Friday nights, Wisconsinites (not just German Catholics, and not just those in Milwaukee) unwound over the dinner table, chowing down on that timeless German standby.
Today’s fish fry
Not too much has changed since then. Today, though, cod has taken over the menu—and it likely won’t be fresh from today’s catch in Lake Michigan. You’ll likely be offered French fries in lieu of potato cakes, and dinner rolls sometimes replace rye bread (especially common around Madison). But if you want the true experience, surround yourself with friends and family, grab a lager, and stick to that traditional German menu. Prost!
Where to feast on Wisconsin’s best fish fry
The Red Circle Inn
Swinging open its doors in 1874, the Red Circle Inn is Wisconsin’s oldest restaurant. You can probably predict the menu—hand-cut steaks and seafood (yes, that means fish fry). The spot used to be a Pabst family supper club, so expect some serious ambiance adorning your plate. Find it about 20 miles (32 kilometers) west of Milwaukee.
Kegel’s Inn
Also in Milwaukee (technically West Allis), Kegel’s Inn might be the most famous spot on this list—it opened in 1924 and still serves up authentic German fare. Don’t be surprised if you see some lederhosen while you sip your suds and feast on your fry. It’s one of the best in the state.
Norwood Pines Supper Club
Hiding in the red pines of Northern Wisconsin—technically Minocqua—Norwood Pines is one of the state’s oldest and best supper clubs. Grab a seat next to the screened-in porch or by the fireplace to get that true sense of gemütlichkeit, or warmth and friendliness. Friday fish fry is always on the menu: Atlantic cod paired with corn fritters, coleslaw, French fries, and fresh-baked bread.
Tip Top Tavern
On Madison’s far east side, the Tip Top Tavern hides in an otherwise residential ‘hood—though that doesn’t mean there aren’t lines out the door on Fridays. Locals queue up to get their fish fry fill, so come early. You’ll be asked if you want it fried or baked, with your choice between cod or walleye.
Al Johnson's Swedish Restaurant
Famous for the goats on the roof—you’ll know the restaurant when you see it—Al Johnson’s, in Door County’s Sister Bay, offers a traditional Swedish-style fish fry. In a tiny-but-meaningful twist, the hand-battered cod gets served up with lingonberry sauce and boiled potatoes.
The English Inn
Green Bay’s English Inn ups the ante—can you even handle an all-you-can-eat fish fry? You can test your mettle here for under $25, with six types of fish to keep your tastebuds fresh. Sure, there’s salad included, but why bother?
Pitlik’s Resort
Right on the shores of Sand Lake in Eagle River, you’ll get a traditional fish fry the way it’s perhaps best experienced—alongside lake views. Choose between classic fixins (coleslaw, rye bread), or mix it up with pasta salad and “garden slaw.” Though purists won’t admit it, you really can’t go wrong.
The Chatterbox
Home to the Birkebeiner and the “world’s largest Muskie” (a giant plexiglass fish), Hayward is a natural spot for all things truly Wisconsin. The Chatterbox embodies this, and their popular Friday-night fish fry features battered cod with homemade coleslaw, fries, and the classic rye bread—a true, reliable take on a true, reliable classic.
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