When you mention Madagascar, many people envision lush greenery and white-sand beaches, but Antananarivo shows off a different side of the country. Madagascar’s capital city is high in the mountains and its narrow, winding streets are lined with brightly colored, 19th-century brick houses. Here, things to do include touring the 17th-century Rova Manjakamiadana (Queen’s Palace), catching a traditional hiragasy (opera) performance at the Malagasy Cultural Center, and sampling excellent local dishes at Tokotelo Restaurant—be sure to try the local delicacy of zanadandy (roasted silkworms).
Located off the coast of Mozambique, much of Madagascar’s weather is determined by the winds and storms of the Indian Ocean. Located high above sea level, Antananarivo has a more temperate climate than much of the country. Visit during the mild, dry season from May to August, when outdoor concerts play at Antsahamanitra Amphitheater and the city’s nightlife thrums.
Antananarivo has grown upwards and outwards over the centuries, creating a maze of streets that can be confusing to navigate. While it’s lots of fun to explore on foot, you’d be better off taking a taxi if you’re trying to get somewhere on time; cabs don’t have meters, so always agree on a fare beforehand. For those on a budget, opt for a taxi-be (shared minivans that run along prearranged routes in the city).
The small yet charming Madagascar Photography Museum is a worthwhile stop after touring the nearby Andafiavaratra Palace and Rova Manjakamiadana. The museum displays historic photos of the city and exhibits documentaries about Malagasy culture. For a treat, dine at the attached Café du Musée, where classic French dishes are elevated by Madagascar ingredients. Think lobster rillettes accompanied by mango tartare or foie gras spiked with fresh ginger.
