Ragusa is a city split in two, with orderly, modern Ragusa Superiore set on the hilltop, and labyrinthine Ragusa Ibla splayed haphazardly down the slope below. Within this chaotic jumble, however, sit the city’s greatest treasures: a clutch of exquisite UNESCO-listed Baroque churches and palaces built after an earthquake devastated the area in 1693. The top thing to do in Ragusa is marvel at these 17th-century gems on city tours through the winding lanes and pocket-sized squares before exploring the other Baroque towns of the Val di Noto, including Scicli, Modica, and Noto.
This sun-bleached city is scorching in summer, but that doesn’t stop the steady stream of tourists who fill its warren of lanes to admire the architecture and soak up the timeless atmosphere. Avoid the heat and catch two of the city's main festivals by visiting in the shoulder seasons—between late May and early June, the city puts on a tremendous firework display for the Festival of St. George, while at the beginning of October, the streets fill with artists and musicians for the Ibla Buskers festival.
Much of Ragusa Ibla is pedestrian or restricted to resident traffic, so walking is the only option to visit this splendid old town. No matter—you’d want to take your time on foot anyway to soak in the architectural details and sleepy Mediterranean vibe. The streets are steep, and the heat takes its toll, so wander slowly and stop often for a granita or other sweet treat. Ragusa has a train station and bus terminal, so you can reach the city from other Sicilian towns in Val di Noto and beyond.
Ragusa is known as one of Sicily’s culinary capitals, and it may surprise that this small provincial city is home to three Michelin-starred gourmet restaurants: Locanda Don Serafino, Duomo, and Accursio. However, you don’t need to break the bank at a white-tablecloth establishment to get a great meal. Ibla is packed with everything from market street food stands to casual eateries serving local specialties like trippa alla ragusana (tripe), ’mpanate (savory pie), and scaccia (a filled focaccia).
