The largest island of the Tuscan Archipelago, Elba has one glaring historical claim to fame: Napoleon served his first exile here beginning in 1814. You can visit his residence-turned-museum in the capital, Portoferraio, but many other things to do on this glorious island have nothing to do with Europe’s would-be emperor. To explore Elba’s hairpin roads is to find paradisiacal beaches, island wineries, coves made for snorkeling and kayaking, and hiking and biking trails with sea views fit for, well, a king.
Is there a bad time to visit Italy? Elba comes in under the radar as an international travel destination, avoiding the summer tourist crush befalling other Italian islands, such as Capri. That said, it still fills with visitors in August. Come in May, June, or September for comparable beach weather with fewer crowds. Every spring, Elba—and the Tuscan Archipelago National Park—hosts the Walking Festival, with months of guided hiking excursions and related events celebrating nature and “slow” walking.
Reach Elba by ferry from Piombino on the Tuscan Coast—several companies run roughly 30–60-minute routes to Portoferraio, Cavo, and Rio Marina. However, outside of June to September, these ferries become less frequent. Flying from Italy and other parts of Europe is also an option. If you have a rental car, consider taking it on the ferry. Travelers without four wheels can take Autolinee Toscane buses—plus summer shuttles—between most of Elba’s major towns or get around on rented bikes or scooters.
A large island with well-maintained roads and mesmerizing Tyhrennian vistas, Elba is an ideal biking destination. To get a feel for the island’s beauty, bike from Portoferraio to beautiful Cavoli Beach on the southwest side and back, a roughly 2.5-hour ride through the center and bits of the coast—longer routes travel around the island along the coast.
