Halfway between Marseille and St. Tropez, the commercial port and naval base of Toulon isn't the obvious choice for a Mediterranean vacation. However, scratch the surface and there are lots of things to do in Toulon, a gritty maritime hub with plenty to offer travelers willing to venture beyond the French Riviera resorts. Take your pick of four sandy beaches, zip up to the summit of Mont Faron for a view along the Med, then soak up the nightlife along the harborside. Rugby fans should also take note—the sport is akin to religion in Toulon.
A major passenger ferry and cruise port, Toulon is busiest in the summer (June to August), with its hottest months (July and August) experiencing average highs of 82°F (28°C). To escape the crowds, consider planning your trip in September, when the weather is pleasantly warm and the water is still favorable for swimming.
Many people arrive by sea, and Toulon’s waterfront promenade and Old Town are easily accessible on foot from the port. Less pleasant is traveling by car—a multi-lane departmental road runs right through the center of town, and parking (mostly underground in multi-level parking lots) is expensive. Direct trains linking Toulon with Marseille take under an hour. It’s easy to book day trips to visit Provençal vineyards or the famous Calanques of Cassis from Toulon.
Toulon may be on the French Riviera, but it’s a port city rather than a beach destination. The city beaches get overcrowded, and passing cruise liners ruin the peace. It’s worth driving the 3.1 miles (5 kilometers) to Anse de Méjean, a rocky, little inlet largely covered in dense foliage. There are a few good seafood restaurants perfect for enjoying a sundowner. Bring snorkel gear: The water is like glass.
