Long hidden behind the African Iron Curtain, the isolated country of Eritrea is a wonderland for those who want to wander from the beaten track. Though travel here is tricky, intrepid visitors will be rewarded with some of the most unique sights in eastern Africa. Marvel at UNESCO-listed modernist architecture in Asmara and explore its vibrant shuq bazaar, then venture outside the capital to visit Keren, home to WWII sites and a traditional camel market. Excursions to Massawa (Mitsiwa) on the Red Sea are among the top things to do in Eritrea; you can see the port city’s historic mosque and sail to the untouched Dahlak Islands.
From the central Rift Valley plateau, Eritrea stretches west to the lowlands and east to the Red Sea, so it encompasses several microclimates. Though the temperatures along the coast soar in the summer, the rest of the country has a relatively mild climate and is comfortable to visit year-round. Islam is one of Eritrea’s major religions, so restaurants and other businesses may close or have limited opening hours during Ramadan.
Travel outside the capital city of Asmara is restricted, so getting around the country requires careful advance planning, travel permits, and an entry visa. In Asmara, shared taxis zip along the streets at all hours, stopping to pick up passengers anywhere. Most of the main sights are clustered around the city center, so you can easily explore on foot. To visit outlying cities including Keren and Massawa, you will need to obtain a travel permit and hire a local driver.
Be sure to obtain a visa before departure—Eritrea no longer offers visas on arrival at the airport—and bring plenty of cash to exchange for the local currency, Eritrean nakfa. The country does not have ATMs, though a few of the larger hotels in Asmara and Massawa will exchange foreign currency. Credit cards are not accepted except at a handful of hotels and internet access is slow and scarce. You can purchase timed access at cyber cafés or large hotels.
