All roads in Corsica lead to Ajaccio, the island’s coastal capital. Perched on the west shore, the port town is a strategic basecamp with ferries to mainland France and boats to the rocky Sanguinaires islands—but there's plenty of things to do in Ajaccio proper. Driving north, green-cloaked headlands and powder-white beaches stretch along the shore of Capo di Feno, one of Corsica’s top surf spots, while the mountainous hinterlands afford ample options for hikers. However, Ajaccio’s biggest claim to fame is the birthplace of Napoleon Bonaparte—traces of his legacy can be found throughout the Cité Impériale.
Ajaccio’s beaches fill up with sun-seekers in July and August, when temperatures can climb up to 100°F (38°C), and the city is the center of celebrations for Bastille Day (July 14) and Napoleon’s birthday (Aug 15). Beach days can be enjoyed from May through September, but the shoulder months of April-May and September-October are the best time to visit if you want to hike, explore the island, and dodge the crowds.
While Ajaccio itself is easily visited on foot, you’ll no doubt want to explore the rest of the island on your trip. Local buses ply the coastal roads in season (May-September), making it easy to hop among Corsica’s main towns, but you’ll need to take a taxi if you want to head into the mountains. For greater flexibility, consider hiring a car or motorbike to zip around the island.
France is famous for its cheese, and Corsica is no exception—must-taste cheeses include the AOC-labeled brocciu, semi-soft Brin d’Amour, and pungent U Bel Fiuritu. Ajaccio’s covered market is the best place to pick up island cheeses, held daily at the Halle Gourmande. Come on a Saturday or Sunday morning for the best selection, and stick around for lunch at one of the seafood restaurants.
