La dolce vita is on full display in Trastevere, Rome’s old bohemian quarter with spectacular street food, nightlife, art, and architecture inside its ivy-draped alleyways. Even after visiting the Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere, where shimmering 12th-century mosaics meet towering columns from the ancient Baths of Caracalla, it’s unlikely you’ll run out of things to do. See Raphael’s Renaissance frescoes in Villa Farnesina, say ciao to the butterflies at the Botanical Garden of Rome, or snack on a crispy supplì with a side of people-watching in Piazza di San Calisto.
Trastevere has a happening scene from sunrise to sundown, so you’ll find plenty to do no matter what time of day you visit. For a slice of local life, walk around the neighborhood on Sunday morning, when Romans shop for all manner of vintage goods at the Porta Portese flea market. As far as the best time of year to visit Trastevere, you can’t go wrong with October or April, shoulder-season months when crowds are manageable and the weather is mild.
Walking is the best way to experience Trastevere, where getting lost in the meandering streets—with laundry and bougainvillea hanging overhead—is part of the charm. That said, the neighborhood is well connected by line 8 of the tram, which runs north-south through Trastevere and takes you back toward the historical center in Piazza Venezia. While e-bikes and e-scooters are available here, the cobbled streets are quite uneven; it’s best to taxi if you need to travel far in Trastevere.
Though it’s full of sit-down restaurants, Trastevere is actually one of Rome’s best neighborhoods for a street food crawl. Start with supplì, Roman fried risotto balls with a legendary cheese pull, at the appropriately named Supplì. Next, head to Trapizzino for cone-shaped pizza dough stuffed with Roman specialties—from chicken cacciatore to oxtail stew—and enjoy it in the bustling Piazza Trilussa. Finish on a sweet note at Otaleg, where seasonal gelato flavors range from classic hazelnut to daring celery.