Michelangelo, Galileo, and other Italian luminaries are buried in the Basilica of Santa Croce, the star of Florence’s Santa Croce neighborhood. Once you’ve explored the church’s Renaissance masterpieces, admire its facade from a bar in the piazza, then visit the monastery out back to see the Scuola del Cuoio, a historic leather school at the heart of the area’s craftsmanship scene. From a Christmas market in the winter to the Calcio Storico Fiorentino tournament in the summer, there are always things to do in Santa Croce’s lively piazza and lovely side streets.
Though hot and crowded, June is one of the most exciting months in Piazza Santa Croce: The square becomes a field for calcio storico, a ruthless form of football (soccer) born in 16th-century Florence. Catch a game and take refuge from the heat in the cool basilica or a nearby gelateria. For chillier weather and festive flair, visit during the holidays, when a Christmas market with seasonal foods, live music, and handmade crafts takes over the square.
Walking is the best way to get around Santa Croce—the main piazza is for pedestrians only, and its narrow lanes of Tuscan restaurants and leather shops call for leisurely exploration on foot. It takes just 15 minutes to walk from one side of the neighborhood to the other, and between countless coffee shops and benches with a view, there are plenty of places to rest your feet.
Florence is full of leather purveyors—not all of them good. If high-quality, locally made leather is what you seek, Santa Croce is your destination, specifically the Scuola del Cuoio. This family-owned leather school has been training new generations of artisans for more than 70 years, and the proof is in the shop’s bags, jackets, and other products made expertly on-site. As a rule of thumb, good leather should smell musky, feel supple, and be tightly stitched.