Whether you call them the Maluku Islands, the Moluccas, or the Spice Islands, the provinces of Maluku and North Maluku are Indonesia in a nutshell. They comprise the Banda Islands, the original home of nutmeg; Ternate and Tidore, sultanates that once controlled the clove trade; and the Kei Islands, home to white sand beaches, ancient petroglyphs, and traditional fishing villages. The top things to do in Maluku are water-based—snorkeling and scuba diving are world-class—but you can also tour spice plantations, trek unspoiled jungles, and savor forgotten histories.
The Maluku Islands comprise 1,300 isles and islets scattered across roughly 30,000 square miles (80,000 square kilometers), so the climate varies by region. North Maluku (Halmahera, Ternate, and Tidore) is hot and humid year-round. Like most of Indonesia, Southern Maluku (Kei Islands) sees the most rain from November to March. But central Maluku (Ambon and the Banda Islands) does things differently: It’s driest from November to March.
The Maluku Islands are one of Indonesia’s most rewarding destinations but there’s no sugarcoating it—getting around takes time. Ternate and Ambon, the main travel hubs for North Maluku and Maluku, have good air connections to many island groups and provinces. Elsewhere, you may need to rely on Pelni ferries and smaller local services. Grab and Gojek rideshares operate on Ternate and Ambon, but you’ll need to book drivers or negotiate with street vehicles everywhere else.
You’ll see both nutmeg and mace drying on many of the Banda Islands’ doorsteps. But don’t miss the chance to discover nutmeg fruit, whether made into jam, candied, or served in a tangy sour fish soup. The tall trees that shade the nutmegs in plantations yield kenari nuts. Try them in brittle (halua) or pounded with spices into a sauce for eggplants. Enjoy them at Banda Neira’s elegant Cilu Bintang Estate or pop around the corner to the simple Rumah Makan Nusantara.
