Northeast India—connected to the rest of the country by a 13-mile (22-kilometer) stretch of land nicknamed “Chicken’s Neck”—is famously remote. For most people, getting to the Seven Sister States (Mizoram, Nagaland, Manipur, Assam, Arunachal Pradesh, Tripura, and Meghalaya) involves at least landing in Guwahati. But consider this underrated city as far more than a mere stopover. Between river cruises down the mighty Brahmaputra and visits to temples and pilgrimage sites, you’ll find plenty of things to do in Guwahati. In fact, you may find yourself extending your time here.
Plan a trip from October to March during the region’s winter season. That’s when you’ll find the driest and most temperate weather conditions, plus two out of three major Assamese cultural celebrations, known collectively as Bihu festivals: Kati Bihu in October and Magh Bihu in January. Avoid coming between June and September, as that’s when heavy monsoon rains hit; travel around Assam can be difficult during the monsoon season, which frequently causes flooding and landslides.
Guwahati has its own subway and bus lines, but rides can be slow and the routes difficult to navigate for those unfamiliar with the city. Rideshare apps such as Uber are popular and offer multiple options, including shared or private vehicles and motorcycle taxis. This tends to be a better choice than hailing a taxi off the street, as you won’t have to negotiate the fare. For longer trips outside the city, consider hiring a trusted driver through your hotel.
Don’t miss a visit to Kamakhya Temple, an ancient shrine and pilgrimage site dedicated to the tantric Hindu goddess Kamakhya. Consider attending a daily prayer, known as aarti, held each evening (check the temple website for exact timings). Bear in mind that photography is strictly forbidden inside the temple, and shoes must be removed before entering. Tickets are required in order to make darshan, a type of ritual worship before an icon of the deity; these can be reserved online.
