As the capital of the Sikh religion, Amritsar in northwest India attracts people from all over the world to its Golden Temple. One of the religion's holiest places, the iridescent building covered in gold leaf feeds more than 40,000 pilgrims per day, free of charge. A major attraction nearby is the Wagah Border between India and Pakistan. Both country's militaries go to great lengths to outdo each other in their parades at the nightly closing of the border ceremony, and the atmosphere is carnivalesque.
As in much of India, summer can get very hot in Amritsar. The city lies on the edge of the Great Thar Desert, so weather extremes are common. October through March, when temperatures are lower, is the prime time to visit. Summer temperatures have been known to reach 115°F (46°C). The monsoon usually hits between early July and early September.
By Indian standards, Amritsar isn’t a large city, but its population still numbers well over a million people, so getting to places on foot can be tricky. It’s best to book excursions with a driver (especially if you’d like air conditioning), but for short journeys, flagging down a tuk-tuk is inexpensive and practical. There are cycle rickshaws as well as auto rickshaws.
Make sure you bring cash. Many restaurants and small businesses in Amritsar won’t accept card payments. Try to keep small denomination notes to hand for tipping, which is common practice in India. Don’t scrimp on the food, Punjabi cuisine has a deservedly excellent reputation. Kulcha, a crispy paratha bread smeared with extra butter and eaten for breakfast, is a highlight, and forget about limiting your fat intake—this is the home of world-famous butter chicken.
