One of east Indonesia’s most dazzling destinations, Sumba is often touted as the “new Bali”—even though it’s almost twice the size. And with epic surf, waterfalls, rolling savannah, beaches, valleys, and a traditional culture, this rugged and unspoiled island certainly has the looks for it. Things to do in Sumba span the gamut from surfing, hiking, and horseback riding to cooking classes, weaving lessons, and shopping for crafts. You can also watch Pasola ritual battles and explore traditional villages with megalithic tombs.
Sumba, like most of Indonesia, has two main seasons: dry (generally April–October) and wet (November-March). During the peak of the wet season (December–February), the island’s many unpaved and potholed roads can turn swampy. The best season for surfing the southern coast is March through November, although there are options on the east coast outside of that time. Pasola usually falls in February and/or March.
There’s no sugarcoating it: At twice the size of Bali and with much less infrastructure, exploring Sumba takes time. Although there are ferry connections within East Nusa Tenggara, most travelers arrive at one of two airports: Tambolaka in the west and Waingapu in the east. While some seasoned bikers ride independently, car rentals rarely include insurance, so chartering a car and driver usually works out cheaper and safer. Most travelers find tours easier than piecing together 4WDs and minivans.
Sumba’s signature experience is the Pasola, a series of ritual horseback battles fought using blunted spears. As with many east Indonesian rituals, it’s traditional elders who choose the exact dates, once they can predict when sea worms will emerge from the coral. However, Pasola usually falls in February and/or March. Even if you miss the main event, guides can often arrange visits to other ceremonies, such as funerals, which often feature animal sacrifice.
